Had a small tasing of the Bollinger range tonight - quality all round was high but the most interesting aspect was tasting some of their reserve wines from magnum that they use to make up the NV and NV Rose - Bollinger being the only house to store and age a portion of their reserve wines like this rather than tank - 800,000 bottles at any one time for between 5 and 20 years which is quite mad logistically.
Chardonnay Mesnil 2003 - Very forward Chardonnay nose toasty and buttery but very yeasty strong fresh bread dough on the pallette masking any fruit, dry but quite low acidity.
Pinot Noir Vizennay (Blanc)2004 - Very slight pink hue, distinct pinot nose redcurrents and quite earthy but fresh light prickle and more acidity.
Pinot Noir Ay ,La Cote Aux Enfants (Rouge)2004 - Extremely dense black with light purple rim very fragant black forest fruit, noticable oak nice velvety texture but acidity quite low - Point of interest this is used to blend with La Grande Annee Rose but is also bottled and sold in tiny quantities as a Coteaux Champenoise Pinot Noir.
As for the wines themselves:
Bollinger Special Cuvee NV
60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier
Rich full and yeasty nose buttery and generous - full bodied creamy textured mousse not overly complex and a bit clinical but very good NV style if you like richer more forward styles - which I do.
Bollinger Grande Annee 2000
63% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay
Much more elegant nose more greengage, ripe apple and stony minerality, lovely creamy texture with some light peach notes but good structured minerality carry through but felt missing that zappy acidity I look for and definitely lacking somewhat on length.
Bollinger RD 1997 (Disgorged Sept 08)
65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay
Restrained nose on opening which opened up after 15 minutes, fresh and pure still that stony minerality but with much more citrus notes Lemon zest ripe and aromatic but subtle - very dry precise style good balance nice acidity but feels a bit disjointed, not quite complete - lovely wine but maybe needs more time and I do in general prefer the richer creamy 'house style' of the Grande Annee.
Bollinger Rose NV
60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier
Very attractive pale salmon colour with almost a rusting brown hue - subtle nose quite pinot like with nice herbacious (thyme?) element - lovely creamy texture very savoury style and long drying finish - Very nice.
Bollinger Grande Annee Rose 2002
73% Pinot Noir, 27% Chardonnay
Slightly deeper than the NV but same salmon pink with rusty hue - nose quite closed crushed redcurrant and freeze dried strawberries (if you haven't smelt freeze dried strawberries just trust me on this) - pretty tight but very structured coiled spring type energy with lovely dry herbs - obviously needs more time but very very good length
Probably my favourite wine of the line up but not sure about the considerable price jump so for value my monies on the Rose NV
