Chronicles Of Consumption

Sunday Splendour - The WInes Of The Tasting: 1975 Latour, !928 Haut Brion, 1997 La Landonne & La Mouline

Following the tasting a few weeks ago, and my pathetic lack of reporting to you about my favourite wines, I feel that I should furnish you with my opinions on the 1928 Haut Brion and others, since I know that you have all been on tenterhooks since then.. Here goes:

1928 Haut Brion:

Well, what at treat to drink a wine such as this. By far the oldest wine I  have ever tasted, and still in remarkable condition. Firstly the colour: if you looked at it with no clue about its age, then you would probably assume that it was a mid-aged wine. The core was still ruby/garnet, and the rim was only slightly fading to brown, quite incredible. The melange of flavours included elegant, feminine red fruit (berries) with hints of leather, cedar, spice and cigar box, the acidity was perfectly in balance and believe it or not, there were still some tannins present. A quite delicious wine, and an absolute treat to drink!

1975 Latour:

This was the wine of the morning(!) for me. I tasted it several times over the course of 90mins, and it's evolution was quite noticeable. At first it was a bit disjointed, and there was a whiff of funk on the nose too, but as I went back for my second, third and fourth tastes it became progressively finer as all the elements came together with exposure to air. The colour was a medium ruby with a slightly faded brick rim, it had a medium body with good structure that will see it through for quite a number of years yet. There was still plenty of fruit left, with leather, earth and minerals, and a fine, complex, evolving finish.  In fact, I made it my breakfast wine that day - I went back for as much of a glass as I could get to go with the bacon and eggs that they serve after the tasting (smugometer rating off the scale, Chateau Latour for breakfast!) By then, I felt that this wine was really the most complete wine there, and at a very good stage in its evolution. It will undoubtedly keep, but it's fantastic now.It shows that the best estates can make outstanding wines in unheralded vintages.

1997 Guigal La Mouline:

My preconceived idea for this wine was that it would not be anywhere near it's drinking window, but I have to say that it is drinking superbly now. La Mouline has the highest percentage of Viognier in the mix (11-12%), making it a rounder, fuller and much more approachable wine than La Landonne, and this was no exception. The bouquet was an intense experience of dark cherries and spice, and the palate reflected this too. The rich, ripe fruit was mixed with meaty, spicy flavours, some of the traditional bacon fat and a touch of smoke. The body was quite full, with round ripe tannins and high acidity levels to keep all this in balance. A splendid wine that will keep, but would be very hard not to drink now.

1997 La Landonne:

This was far more backward that its sibling above, and actually, to my taste buds but not in agreement with the general consensus, was a more interesting wine. This bottling has no Viognier, and you can tell immediately. It is much firmer and leaner, with a more clearly defined structure that betrays the fact that this is a wine that will take longer to reach its peak. The flavours and aromas were more traditional, plenty of lean, dark fruit with pepper and spices, tapenade, bacon fat and much more smoke than La Mouline. This was an intense, lean and very savoury experience, and one that I would love to revisit in 10 years time. My number 2 wine of the morning as I prefer this leaner style (though not many agreed with me).

After tasting these giants, most of the others paled into insignificance apart from the 1996 Latour which is a great wine but far too young obviously, and possibly the two vintages of Opus One. Sadly I can't actually remember which of the 2 Opus's was better now because I was so excited by the Guigal Syrahs, so if you wanted notes on those, then I'm sorry, that's just tough I'm afraid! Harrumph...

One of the tragedies of the tasting was the 1959 Mouton-Rothschild, which was totally underwhelming if I'm honest. At a previous tasting this was clearly one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted, so this was a total disappointment, a very bad bottle. Can't have it all though I suppose.. Neither was the 1966 Palmer that great unfortunately, next time maybe..

Sunday Splendour - 1928 Haut Brion, 1975 & 1996 Latour, 1966 Palmer, 1997 Guigal La Landonne & La Mouline

So it begins once more: the winter auction program from Edward Roberts International, and along with it the splendid pre-auction tastings where one has the opportunity to sample wines that are completely out of reach to regular wine drinkers. Or, I should really say, to wine drinkers without deep pockets. To wet your appetite here is the list of wines that were poured this morning:

2008 Jemrose Vineyards Viognier Egret Pond

1928 Chateau Haut-Brion

1959 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild

1966 Chateau Palmer

1975 Chateau Latour

1981 Chateau Lascombes

1996 Chateau Latour

1996 Vallana Boca

1997 Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pieve

1989 Opus One

1991 Opus One

2002 B R Cohn Cabernet Sauvignon Silver Label

2002 Bryant Cabernet Sauvignon

1997 Guigal Cote Rotie La Landonne

1997 Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline

2008 Jemrose Vineyards Grenache Foggy Knoll

2007 Jemrose Vineyards Gloria's Gem Proprietary Blend

2007 Jemrose Vineyards Syrah Cardiac Hill

1990 Bruichladdich Prime Malt Select #1 16 Year Old Single Pot Still Malt Scotch Whiskey

I think you'll all agree that this looks like a most excellent way to spend a Sunday morning. More in the next post...

2001 Chapoutier Hermitage Blanc Chante Alouette Update

A quick update on the lovely Chante Alouette I drank yesterday: there was around a glass and a half left in the fridge for me to quaff today before going to the airport, and it had really improved overnight. It had fleshed out to become a sumptuous, opulent example of this wine, the orchard fruit and spice had also really expressed itself beautifully too, and it truly was a delight. The only issue was that I had to down it in about 2 minutes as my carriage was waiting for me outside my house. O well, there are definitely worse drinks to be forced to neck before boarding a plane... London here I come..!

Fatboy's going to London

Evening all

Fatboy is, as the title suggests, going to London. I will have the extremely dubious pleasure of meeting with Nahthern for the first time since January. We will, however, have the far-less dubious pleasure of dining at The Ledbury in Notting Hill - a restaurant that recently received its second star, and scene of a legendary lunch last summer involving Fatboy, Nahthern and Kat that lasted basically through the evening service. And believe me, they really did look after us... I have high hopes for this reunion meal!

As I write this, I am supping politely on a glass or 3 of 2001 Chapoutier Hermitage Blanc Chante Alouette. This is a charming tipple, beautifully balanced and a delectable mouthful. Quite full-bodied - as most 100% Marsanne wines tend to be - it offers more on the palate than it does on the nose, which is quite restrained, betraying its youth. I was a little concerned that it was in a bit of a closed-down dead zone when I opened it, but it's developing nicely now after being open for a couple of hours. The nose is still quiet, but the mid-palate flavours of dried stone fruits, marzipan, toasted nuts and a touch of honey are really starting to shine through, and the oxidative style that characterises these Rhone whites is truly joyous! There is quite an intensity to this, a restrained kind of power, that sneaks up on you over a period of time, the kind of wine that takes you a sip or two to really appreciate, and makes you want more just as you get towards the end of the bottle. Actually I do have another bottle, so no worries there... Just as an afterthought, this wine has been consumed with Indian food, and was a very decent accompaniment, certainly not overpowered by the strong flavours of the food, testament to the depth and power of this particular libation. Splendid.

 

 

 

New BYO Wine Club In London

Well at last! Maybe the idea of BYO will finally catch on in the sometimes-very-stuffy city of London, where this type of thing has been ignored for far too long. The rest of the civilised world has taken to this concept quite readily, but not the most civilised city, or indeed country, of them all. No, for far too long BYO has been looked down upon in the UK, and even now someone has to try to make some money out of it. Everyone knows that you can take a special bottle of wine to pretty much any top restaurant, as long as you make the arrangement in advance, and as long as the bottle you take isn't on the restaurant's wine list. And it helps if you know the restaurant, and/or you are famous. O yes, and the bottle you bring really should be very special too.

And you know what? You don't need to pay a membership fee to a club in order to be able to do this either!

I suppose, however, that in a city where the restaurant industry can be pretty change-resistant this is at least a step in the right direction...

Here is a link to the story in Decanter:

http://www.decanter.com/news/299036.html

I'm Back!!

Here I am, I have returned once again to furnish you with tales of consumption... I must apologise for being absent, but I have been distracted by the minor issue of making a house purchase, obtaining a mortgage (not easy) and then moving into said house. Anyway, along with these piddling little trifles has come a few bottles of some relatively pleasant wines to celebrate and to help ease the stress of the transition - among others a NV Vilmart et Cie Cuvee Rubis (rose), 2002 Launois Pere et Fils Special Club Selection, 2001 Monbousquet, 2001 Destieux, and several others. In fact I have also discovered, rather shockingly, a taste for cheap Portuguese Vinho Verde as a pleasant low-alcohol tipple for the hot weather that has recently engulfed us. What else have I been drinking? Hmm, a 1997 Brunello (can't remember the name, will have to find out as it was very good), and a bit more of my favourite South of France white, the 2007 Ermitage du Pic St Loup Cuvee St Agnes Blanc. 

O yes, and there was also an excellent little tasting yesterday of superb Austrians and Barolos at The Chicago Wine Company.

As I appear to be ever so mildly inebriated after consuming some of the aforementioned Vinho Verde, a bottle of the 2004 Au Bon Climat Nuits-Blanches Au Bouge, and perhaps a little soupcon of the Bodegas Tradicion 30 year Palo Cortado, I think I will leave it until tomorrow to post a few reviews - I do, after all, need to leave anyone who cares to read this salivating for more.

Until manana amigos...

Bodegas Tradicion, Palo Cortado, 30 Year

Following that, the sommelier noted my interest in a 30 year Palo Cortado sherry form Bodega Tradicion, which she duly served us with a cheese plate as an accompaniment. I have to be honest, I fail to understand the distinct lack of interest in sherry in the US, a drink like this particular one is such a treat, so incredibly complex and satisfying, with great character and immense depth to it. I could tell that hardly anyone orders it as she was really excited when I asked her about it. Anyway, here's a quick tasting note for a truly marvellous beverage:

Dark orange/amber colour, with a stunning, oxidised nose of bitter nuts, citrus, candied fruits and something else, maybe marzipan. The palate is light in body, and is equally stunning and complex, kind of a salty citrus, with apricots and lots of bitter nuts, almonds, on the finish; light and fresh, very enlivening actually, the sort of drink you could easily drink a lot of without realising what you are doing - stunning. In fact its so good it has to be worth a trip back to The Gage just for another glass.

I'm waiting for Chicago's first sherry bar to open up,like the new Bar Pepito in London. Maybe then a new market in the US might emerge, and we can have access to more of this great style. The chances of getting a fresh bottle of a Fino or a Manzanilla here is about the same as England's chances of winning the World Cup this summer: zero.

Giuseppe Quintarelli - Bianco Secco, Ca' del Merlo 2007 @ The Gage, Chicago

One of a relatively small number of gastropubs in Chicago, The Gage seems always to be extremely busy whenever I am there - and for good reason too. The food is good, and well-priced, and there is a pretty extensive list of libations available for one's purveyance, and in fact the wine list has quite a few gems on it (such as Dagueneau's 2006 Pouilly Fume Silex for $90 - unfortunately sold out) , sourced by their extremely knowledgeable, helpful and friendly wine director, Shebnem Ince. I was most impressed by the way she took the time to discuss our options, taking into consideration external factors such as the biodynamic calendar (it was a flower day), and also that the barometric pressure was low, and recommending wines that she thought would be the most expressive - and recommend a splendid wine she did. She steered me away from a Sancerre from Pascal Cotat (too young) and a white Chateauneuf Du Pape (too tight), and recommended a white, a Soave, from one of Italy's most revered producers, Giuseppe Quintarelli, his Bianco Secco, Ca' del Merlo 2007.

This is a blend of 5 grapes - Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Saorin, which apparently is a Tokay clone. It has a pale straw colour (I think, it was pretty dark, and helpfully I am a little colourblind) and a lovely, but slightly muted nose of honey and white flowers, with  wet rock minerality, plus some citrus aromas too - lime and lemon zest. The palate is much weightier than I had anticipated, with more intense fruit than on the nose, plenty of citrus again, with some ripe red apple and a touch of apricot, also the honey is there and the strong mineral backbone too. There are medium levels of acidity, certainly enough to balance the weight, and it has a very clean and lengthy finish. It is quite dense with a very creamy texture, and good flavour intensity and richness to complement the weight. Overall an excellent choice, and it went very well with our crab starters and scallop and sea bream mains.

There is more to follow...

DRC - Blackmail And Extortion Plot...

Dear me, it seems that some fellow has tried to blackmail one of the most famous domaines in all of world wine, and has unsurprisingly failed! Here is a link to the story from Decanter:

http://www.decanter.com/news/297784.html

I don't understand how these people think that they will succeed with a scheme like this to be honest... Anyway, I'll leave you to ponder it.

1968 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon

Hurrah! The experimental tasting of the '68 Freemark Abbey Cabernet turned out pretty well actually. I must be honest, often when I have tried older US Cabs I have been very pleasantly surprised by how well they have held up. A couple of examples that spring to mind immediately are the '70 Mondavi, the '86 Montelena and the '87 Dominus. But unfortunately when you get into the early '90s, the style changes, the wines become more fruit-driven with lower acidity levels and they just don't seem to hold up so well (the '93 Beringer Private Reserve was fading badly when I tried it recently being just one example).

So to this particular wine, my first impressions of this wine before opening were that it could be good, given the high fill level and the impeccable provenance that I knew it had. My thoughts that it was browning turned out to be wrong though, it had a medium ruby/garnet core, which faded to a dusty red brick rim with only a very slight hint of brown. The nose was unexpectedly intense and surprisingly fruit-driven; a good amount of red fruit - currants, berries and cherries - plus a little smoke, cedar and leather, with just a touch of oxidation, but nothing unpleasant at all. The palate was dominated by sour red cherries and redcurrants, with the cedar and leather coming through on the medium+ length finish. Quite light in body with a very soft texture and fully resolved tannins, it isn't a wine of huge depth or intensity, but it has impeccable balance, good complexity and lovely flavours, and for its age it has a refreshingly vibrancy. In addition, after 3 hours of being open there were no signs that it was falling over at all. It is without doubt one of the most interesting wines I have tasted recently, and is certainly holding up far better than I had anticipated. A splendid drink indeed, and I thank the donors of this fine wine very much.