Tasting Notes - Rhone, North

2001 Chapoutier Hermitage Blanc Chante Alouette Update

A quick update on the lovely Chante Alouette I drank yesterday: there was around a glass and a half left in the fridge for me to quaff today before going to the airport, and it had really improved overnight. It had fleshed out to become a sumptuous, opulent example of this wine, the orchard fruit and spice had also really expressed itself beautifully too, and it truly was a delight.

2001 M Chapoutier Hermitage Blanc Chante Alouette

As I write this, I am supping politely on a glass or 3 of 2001 Chapoutier Hermitage Blanc Chante Alouette. This is a charming tipple, beautifully balanced and a delectable mouthful. Quite full-bodied - as most 100% Marsanne wines tend to be - it offers more on the palate than it does on the nose, which is quite restrained, betraying its youth. I was a little concerned that it was in a bit of a closed-down dead zone when I opened it, but it's developing nicely now after being open for a couple of hours. The nose is still quiet, but the mid-palate flavours of dried stone fruits, marzipan, toasted nuts and a touch of honey are really starting to shine through, and the oxidative style that characterises these Rhone whites is truly joyous! There is quite an intensity to this, a restrained kind of power, that sneaks up on you over a period of time, the kind of wine that takes you a sip or two to really appreciate, and makes you want more just as you get towards the end of the bottle. Actually I do have another bottle, so no worries there... Just as an afterthought, this wine has been consumed with Indian food, and was a very decent accompaniment, certainly not overpowered by the strong flavours of the food, testament to the depth and power of this particular libation. Splendid.

1996 J-L & J-P Jamet Cote Rotie

Moderate depth of colour turning to mahogany red - nose very promising but closed and tight on the palette - 1 hr decanting reallly starting to soar - huge nose - powerful smokey bacon fat black olive tapenade over dark brambly fruit - light to med weight palette elegant lovely and velvety but with great power - lovely structured fruit all in balance fantastic texture and complete very long finish - splendid - yum - sadly very diificult to get hold of

2005 A. Graillot Hermitage

Medium density deep purple yourthful rim - very forward open nose dark plummy fruit and classic black pepper - soft ripe fruit quite modern style concentrated but not extracted, soft tannins nice broad palette well balanced with subtle spiciness - youthful but very nice approachable style - NB only second vintage of Hermitage by Graillot after 04

2000 George Vernay Coteaux de Vernon Condrieu

Deep browning orange colour - strange muted nose savoury little fruit oxidative pear cider - palette is strpped of fruit evolved to toffee caramel - little acidity, flabby and short finish - not looking good on this bottle at all

2007 Andre Peret Condrieu 'Chery'

Light gold orange lovely restrained nose classically aromatic dried apricot honey and pineapple - light on the palette beautifully structured minerality and spicy, subtle and complete - lovely and fresh and great finish - very very nice Condrieu

2006 Gaillard Cotes de Rhones 'Les Gendrines'

100% Viognier

Bright nectarine orange, pleasant but full on classic ripe viognier nose, front palette initially not bad, very rich but balanced fresh fruit but then moves on to to a strange sappy medicinal and coarse finish - unpleasant

2004 Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage 'Guiraude'

Deep purple youthful rim - very clean pure nose, fresh pepper and sappy menthol freshness, subtle but high toned - elegant well balanced soft fruit and nice spicy finish - probably still a bit young

2000 Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage

Dense inky red/purple colour very forward nose on opening of dark brambly fruit and heavy savoury element of black olive tapenade and black pepper - flavours that carry through on the palette - soft ripe fruit easy tannins and nice balance and structure - lovely finish, drinking perfectly now, very nice Crozes

1998 Guigal Hermitage

Fat juicy dark fruit touch of spice, clove and pepper - very modern almost new world style, well balanced well made but a bit clinical with little complexity - quite boring at this stage